Earticle

Sonia Rykiel’s knitwear is unique, not only in its shapes and materials, but also in the combination of colors used with a stripe pattern and an intarsia pattern from an aspect of colors. This study intended to aim analyzing the colors used in Sonia Rykiel’s collection, thereby providing ideas in developing new colors and coloration and basic data for the knit wear industry. For this study, we selected 267 fashion design works that were shown on web‐sites. 601 colors were chosen in Sonia Rykiel's 14 collections from 2002 to 2008. The resulting RGB values were converted into HV/C by the Munsell Conversion Program (Ver. 8.0.1). And then the colors were analyzed by Munsell’s 10 Hues and 12 tone classifications of PCCS (Practical Color Coordinate System). The results of this study are as follows. First, red and dark grayish tone were the most frequently used. In all seasons, red and dark grayish tone were the most prominent. Despite a small difference each year, red and yellow red were steadily used. Second, the use of achromatic colors, which is usually used as a basic color, was insignificant. However, off white and brown were used a lot instead of white and black. This study analyzed the color characteristics of knitwear in Sonia Rykiel’s collections with important role and colors of knit wears. For future study, we suggest the analysis of the color combination and harmony in Sonia Rykel’s collections.

본 연구의 목적은 커뮤니케이션 특성을 오바마(Obama) 티셔츠를 중심으로 비교 연구해 봄으로써, 과거 기록의 분석이 아닌 동시대를 빠르게 분석한다는 의미와 함께, 현 시대 트렌드 속에서의 상징적 생산물로써 급격히 변화하는 힙합 패션 속 티셔츠를 통해 상징적 커뮤니케니션을 통한 상품성 파악에 기여한다는 데 있다. 연구 방법은 문헌 연구로서 국내외의 관련 서적과 논문 등의 선행 연구 자료를 토대로 분류, 분석하고, 현 시점의 특성을 중심으로 한 연구인 점을 감안하여 뉴욕을 중심으로 한 인터넷과 신문과 같은 보도 자료와 미국 내 유명 힙합 셀렉트 스토어(hip-hop select store) 웹사이트 등의 이미지를 참고하였다. 또한 패션 아이템으로 가장 보편적이고 대중적인 티셔츠를 중심으로 힙합 문화 속 많은 영향력을 지닌 마틴 루터 킹(Martin Luther King Jr), 말콤 X(Malcom X), 그리고 버락 오바마(Barack Obama)가 표현된 티셔츠를 비교한 후, 오바마 티셔츠가 가진 커뮤니케이션의 특징을 살펴보았다. 본 연구의 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 힙합 패션 안에서 티셔츠는 커뮤니케이션의 역할을 하는 상징적인 생산물로 특히 비언어적인 측면의 커뮤니케이션에서 매우 직접적인 전달력을 지닌다. 둘째, 버락 오바마를 주제로 한 티셔츠는 저항과 개혁의 상징으로써의 슬로건과 메시지를 전달하는 커뮤니케이션의 설득성을 지닌다. 셋째, 버락 오바마를 주제로 한 티셔츠는 힙합 문화 속 그들만의 슬로건을 따른다는 동일 정체성에 대하여 연대감과 동조성을 가진다. 넷째, 오바마 티셔츠의 경우 다른 비교 대상들과 다르게 디자인적인 요소를 어필하며 많은 디자이너들에게 오바마의 슬로건과 함께 오바마 그 자체로써 디자인 주제로 사용되었으며, 이는 커뮤니케이션의 패션성을 보여주며 패션성으로 인하여 발생되는 디자인 상품성으로까지 발전을 이루고 있다. 다섯째, 오바마 티셔츠는 예술 사조 중 대중적이고 이해가 쉬우며 특수한 이미지가 일상적으로 것으로 바뀌게 하는 팝 아트와 그래피티 등으로 디자인되어지며 커뮤니케이션의 예술성을 보인다.

The purpose of this study is to investigate various artistic values expressed in the military look featured in the works of the New York collection designers using content analysis method. The research data were gathered from 󰡔Vogue󰡕 and 󰡔Collezoni Donna󰡕 from 1996 to 2000. Total of 199 works were collected and analyzed by dividing into 5 categories: item, silhouette, color, color coordination and fashion image. The results were summarized as follows. First, since the New York collections suggested relatively comfortable and practical clothing, the appearance frequency for pants was the highest, and coat, jacket and pants suit followed it. Therefore, these items were considered to be suitable to express military look mode. Second, the appearance frequency of straight silhouette was close to a majority and this was because straight silhouettes concealing exact body line were considered to fit into military look. Third, influenced by achromatic colors that was popular at that time, the appearance frequency of white and black was the highest. And typical military colors including beige, dark brown and olive green were also appeared frequently. Finally, it was found that monochromatic coordination was used to express the masculine image of military look effectively.

Modern society has provided people with a foundation to live abundant lives with the effects of industrialization and through scientific development, but the environmental problem has surfaced as a side effect. This tendency appears in the tendency for people to return to purity, nature and essential human nature, and simultaneously stresses harmony between people and nature. Purity that is based on naturalness that is not artificial and does not confine the human body, and contemporary society that pursues nature and naturalist tendencies that express nostalgia can be seen to have a correlation with the decorative art nouveau style that appeared in the beginning of the 19th century, including natural and organic curves. Therefore, there is a need for a study that adopts the characteristics of art nouveau, which has naturalist tendencies, with the human body, which is a basic object of nature, in unique and different methods of art makeup. Art makeup is a comprehensive art that expresses the human body, and an art field that can maximize an artist's creative and unique mind. An artist's mind can be expressed with art makeup using different themes and methods and unique presentation methods, or through a collaboration with other culture and art fields. Therefore, this study applied human body photographs as a medium of art makeup, to attempt diverse expressions and a new type of art makeup. This study examined the formative characteristics and other characteristics of art nouveau patterns through theoretical research. Based on the theory of Stephan Tschudi-Madsen, art nouveau patterns were divided into abstract·structural·symbolic art nouveau patterns, flowers and organic art nouveau patterns, linear·flat·symbolic art nouveau patterns, structural·geometric art nouveau patterns, and art nouveau that is applied to many different fields of art such as architecture, industrial arts, painting, sculpture and fashion, and examined. Then, the art nouveau patterns to be used in the artwork of this study were extracted. Next, the idea, types and expression methods of art makeup were theoretically examined, and lastly, examples of art makeup cases that applied patterns with art nouveau characteristics were examined to establish a theoretical background. Based on theoretical examinations, the formative characteristics of art nouveau were applied to an expression method that uses painting methods and methods that use objects on photograph media. Then an artwork was produced according to the forms of the 4 theories of art nouveau patterns of Tschudi-Madsen - abstractㆍstructuralㆍsymbolic art nouveau patterns. The artworks produced through this study extracted the mobile and organic curve decorations of art nouveau forms and focused on a new method of art makeup expression using a variety of expression methods. A natural beauty was expressed through a combination of art nouveau style and curves of the body, and by applying it to many different angles, this study cultivated a new field of creativity by improving the weaknesses of art makeup, which include requiring a lot of time and effort and being temporary, and granting infinite creative potential to art makeup.

The purpose of this study is to find out characteristics (item, fabric pattern, color, color tone) of hit brand products during 1996 ‐ 2005 years. On 4 categories of women, men, casual and sportswear, characteristics of successful brand products were researched. 3 hit brands per category were selected and total 33 brands were examined. Finally advertisements of magazine on each brand were analyzed. The results are as follows. At first, successful items were examined. During 10 years, for female apparel, pants, Jacket and skirt were shown more in this order. For male apparel, shirts, t‐shirts, suits and pants were appeared more frequently. In casual, t‐shirts, jeans, jumper and jacket were preferred more. For sport wear, order of t‐shirts, pants, jumper and sweater were shown. And then, there were many solid kinds of basic and fancy patterns in fabric pattern. Considering color and color tone, Black, white were shown more in color and color tone of W, Bl were appeared more. Generally practical items, fabric patterns, colors and color tones were preferred. From these results, marketers can use characteristics of these hit products for development of successful brand and products.

Andy Warhol was working as a fashion illustrator in the 1950s. This study is designed to identify the expressive characteristics of his fashion illustration. Total 248 materials were collected, and analysis criteria were composed of following. Expression style is materialistic view of simplification and lucidness in disregard of elegance and image extended repetition by the method of reproduction. The motif is centering around small piece of fashion items by simplification. The way of creating is be freed from hand drawing by reproduction and collage. It is very suggestive that he was succeed in commercial fashion illustration bring focus into fashion products although worked different styles and technics from another fashion illustrators.