Earticle

조선 말기 방한용 깔개인 모담(毛毯)이 창덕궁 성정각의 해체 공사 중 발견되었다. 문헌기 록에 비해 현전하는 조선시대 모직물 유물이 많지 않아 유물로서 가치가 높다. 특히 1907년 창덕궁 성정각을 수리한 기록이 있어, 모담은 19세기 말 또는 20세기 초에 제작된 것으로 생각된 다. 출토 모담은 자적색 계열의 바탕 직물로 위에 황색, 홍색 등으로 선염한 색사를 표면에만 삽입하여 문양을 시문하였다. 모담의 식서부분은 S연의 면사가 확인되었으며, 지경사는 Z연의 황마사, 지위사는 S연의 황마사, 문경사는 S연의 모사를 사용했다. 특히 무늬는 루프파일의 색사 로, 색사의 경계면에서 일부 컷 파일이 확인되나 지위사로 고정되어 표면에 거의 드러나지 않는 다. 황마사와 모사를 사용한 것은 18세기 중엽 유럽의 브뤼셀 카펫의 영향을 받은 것으로 짐작된 다. 모담의 문양을 밝히는 데 한계가 있으며 다만 문양이 부분적으로 반복됨을 알 수 있다. 이상 의 연구내용을 도출하기 위해 문헌과 회화자료 외에 현미경 분석, 적외선 분광분석을 실시하였 다. 또한 유물에 사용된 염료를 밝히기 위해 색도측정을 토대로 자외-가시광 분광분석을 실시하 여 천연 염색한 직물 샘플에 대한 교차분석을 시도하였다. 그 결과 모담의 녹색 모사는 쪽을 사용하지 않았으며, 자적색의 바탕조직은 소목으로 염색한 것으로 추정할 수 있다.

A Woolen carpet from the late Joseon Dynasty was unearthed in the process of repairing Seongjeonggak in Changdeokgung. Since relics are rarer than documentary records, the woolen carpet is highly valued as a relics. It is presumed to have been woven in the late 19th or early 20th century because there is a record of repairing Seongjeonggak in 1907. In the carpet, a pattern is made by inserting colored yarn dyed yellow and red onto a reddish-purple ground weave. The selvage of the woolen carpet used cotton thread, and jute is used for the warp and weft of the ground weave. The colored patterns is made of wool in the form of loop pile. Cut piles may appear occasionally when the colored yarn changes, but are almost invisible from the surface because they are pressed tightly with a shuttered weft. Making carpets with jute and wool is thought to be influenced by the Brussels carpets of the mid-18th century. Furthermore, the woolen carpet is torn and the pattern is completely unclear; however, it is understandable that the pattern is partially repeated. Microscopic and Fourier transform-Infrared spectrometer(FT-IR) analyses were performed for the above investigation. To identify the dyes used in relics, we compared them with natural dyed fabric samples based on chromaticity measurements and Ultraviolet/Visible spectrophotometer(UV-Vis) analysis. These analyses revealed that the woolen carpet’s dyed green yarn did not use indigo, and reddish-purple ground weave is estimated to have used Caesalpinia sappan.

서울공예박물관에 소장된 모담방장(毛毯房帳)은 경사에 면사를 두고 위사에 모사를 두어 평직 (平織)으로 짠 것이다. 문양 부분은 타피스트리(Tapestry)로 제직하고, 안료를 덧칠하였다. 색도 를 측정하고, X선 형광분석에 의한 성분 분석 결과 진한 붉은 색의 문양에서는 수은(Hg)이 검출 되어 주사(Cinnabar)나 합성안료인 주(Vermilion)로 추정하였다. 직물의 경사와 위사, 선단 및 후 면 직물 등 총 7개의 직물 시료에 대한 분석을 실시하였다. 그 결과 모담방장의 경사는 섬유 단면에 가운데 중공(루멘)이 있는 면섬유로, Infrared 피크도 마찬가지로 O-H 결합과 C-O 결합이 나타난다. 위사인 모섬유는 원형과 타원형의 단면이 확인되며, Infrared 피크는 N-H/O-H Stretching, Amide(-CONH-)을 보였다. 모섬유에 사용된 동물종을 확인하기 위해 문화재청의 동물 털 시료와 대조분석 결과, 산양이나 염소털을 사용한 것으로 추정되며, 방적에 용이한 삽살개 털도 사용했을 가능성도 배제할 수 없다.

A woolen tapestry curtain, owned by the Seoul Museum of Craft Art, is composed of tabby by cotton-warp and wool-weft threads and its patterned part is shown as a tapestry; paint with pigment has been added to it. The chromaticity of this curtain was measured and the substances in the deep red color were confirmed as Hg by an analysis of the ingredients through X-ray fluorescence. This is presumed to be cinnabar or vermilion. Analyses were performed on a total of seven fabric samples, including the warp & weft of the fabric, its trimming, and its back fabric. As a result, the warp of the woolen tapestry curtain was determined to be a cotton fiber with a middle hole or lumen in the cross-section. Furthermore, an infrared peak likewise showed O-H and C-O binding. Wool fibers as wefts were identified with circular and oval cross-sections and IR peaks showed N-H/O-H stretching and amide(-CONH-). The animal hair samples used in the wool fiber are believed to have come from long-tailed goral or goats and the possibility of using easy-to-spin sapsal dog hair is also not to be overlooked. This was determined through a contrast analysis by the Cultural Heritage Administration to identify the animal species used in the tapestry.

본 연구에서는 폐닥나무 섬유를 사용한 목모보드의 제조 및 조습 특성 분석을 수행하였다. 목모보드 제조를 위해 폐닥나무 섬유의 분쇄 시간을 30, 60, 120, 180초로 제어하였으며, 혼합량을 시멘트 대비 0, 3, 6, 9% 수준으로 외할 첨가하여 제어하였다. 분쇄시간 제어 조습섬유 혼입 목모보드의 흡 · 방습 특성 분석 결과, 60초 분쇄 섬유 혼합 목모보드가 흡 · 방습 성능이 뛰어난 것으로 확인되었으며, 이는분쇄 섬유의 손상이 적어 소재 자체의 흡 · 방습 성능이 보드 혼합 시에도 발현되었기 때문이다. 또한 섬유 혼합량 제어 목모보드의 흡 · 방습 특성 분석 결과, 6% 혼합 목모보드가 흡 · 방습 특성이 가장 뛰어났으며, 흡습 및 방습량은 각각 291.00g/m2 및 108.75g/m2으로 확인되었다.

The humidity-control function and manufacturing characteristics of wood-wool boards using waste-paper-mulberry fiber were analyzed in this study. For the manufacture of wood-wool boards, the pulverizing times of waste-paper-mulberry fibers were controlled at 30, 60, 120, and 180 s, and the mixing amounts were controlled by adding 0%, 3%, 6%, and 9%, respectively, as compared to cement. Analysis of the moisture adsorption and desorption characteristics of the wood-wool boards controlled for pulverizing time revealed that the wood-wool board with 60 s of pulverized fiber exhibited the best adsorption and desorption performances. It was estimated that the adsorption and desorption performances of the material itself were adequate even when the boards were mixed because of minimal damage to the fiber. In addition, an analysis of the absorption and desorption characteristics of the fiber-mixture-controlled wood-wool boards showed that the 6%-mixed wood-wool board had the best absorption and desorption performances of 291.00 g/m2 and 108.75 g/m2, respectively.

In this work, we investigated on the white-colored ribbon fiber synthesized from GaN powder. We convinced the formation of monoclinic phase $\beta$-Ga$_2$O$_3$from the X-ray diffraction pattern on ribbon fiber. The 10 K PL spectrum consisted with the strong emission band caused by self-activated optical center at 3.464 eV with the full-width at half maximum of 48 meV and the impurity related emission bands. Through this work, the optical properties and the electrical conductivity of $\beta$-Ga$_2$O$_3$, it will be useful for the fabrication of optoelctronic devices operating in visible spectrum region.

Polynitro fullerenes were synthesized by reaction C-60 in benzen solution with a mixture of NaNO$_2$ and HNO$_3$. Hydrolysis of polynitro fullerenes in aqueous NaOH gave the corresponding polyhydroxylated fullerenes. Sulfonation reaction was carried out in pyridine solution of ClSO$_3$H. Infrared spectra of the resultant fullerene derivatives showed the characteristic IR bands, corresponding to absorptions of O-H, N-O, and SO$_3$Na functions. Electric resistivity and thermal transmittance of wool fiber absorbed with the water-soluble C-60 were investigated. Thermal transmittances of wool fiber were increased with increasing water-soluble C-60 concentrations, but electric conductivity were decreased with raising water-soluble C-60 uptake values.

Short wool fibers obtained by the stretch breaking process can be blended with cotton fibers and processed in a cotton spinning system, which has a high production rate. For the structural property of the wool fiber after stretch breaking, the diameter and length of the wool fiber were measured as a function of time. The diameter of the broken fibers was finer than the diameter of untreated fibers. The fiber diameter at the break point was the finest and was more irregular than the original fiber. The broken fiber showed mechanical properties of increased modulus, decreased breaking strain, and increased breaking strength.

Previous investigation results revealed that after the Low Temperature Plasma (LTP) treatment, the hydrophilicity of wool fiber was improved significantly. Such improvement enhances the wool dyeing and finishing processes which might be due to the changes of the wool surface to a more reactive one. In this paper, wool fibers were treated with LTP with different gases, namely, oxygen, nitrogen and gas mixture (25 % hydrogen/75 % nitrogen). Investigations showed that chemical composition of wool fiber surface varied differently with the different plasma gas used. The surface chemical composition of the different LTP-treated wool fibers was evaluated with different characterization methods, namely FTIR-ATR, XPS and saturated adsorption value. The experimental results were thoroughly discussed.

In this paper, a hand-operating method (tiled test method) of the wool-blending sample is made out, and make use of the method, the test of wool-blending bundle in different blending ratio is accomplished. According to the test data, the synthesis method of the stretch curve is worked out and the synthesis software for the typical stretch curve of wool-blending bundle is designed. Through laboratory hand-operating method, the blending fasciculus applying to fiber bundle test can be obtained in a short time. Calculation for sampling is accomplished in the article. We bring up 9 new signs to describe the characteristics of the curve behind peak for the first time: elongation behind peak (HE), elongation percentage behind peak (HEP), relative elongation rate behind peak (RHE), total break work $(W_a)$, break work behind peak (HW), break work coefficient behind peak (HWC), elongation percentage of half-load behind peak (HEL), load percentage of half-elongation behind peak (HLE), break efficiency behind peak (HEC).

천연섬유강화 복합재료에서 여러 가지 섬유표면 개질을 통해서 천연섬유와 고분자매트릭스 사이에 계면접착과 복합재료 특성을 향상시키고자 하는 많은 연구 노력이 있었다. 본 연구에서는 폐양모섬유 강화 폴리프로필렌 매트릭스 복합재료를 압축성형공정 방법으로 제조하였고, 그들의 기계적 특성 및 충격 특성을 분석하였다. 그 결과, 폐양모/폴리프로필렌 복합재료의 인장 및 굴곡 특성 그리고 충격강도는 수산화나트륨(NaOH)을 이용한 알칼리처리와 3-glycidylpropylsilane(GPS)을 이용한 실란처리와 같은 처리매체에 크게 의존하였다. 실란처리를 한 폐양모섬유를 포함한 복합재료는 알칼리처리를 한 폐양모섬유를 포함한 것보다 더 우수한 기계적 특성과 충격저항성을 나타내었다. 복합재료 파단면은 특성 증가가 폐양모섬유와 폴리프로필렌 매트릭스 사이에 계면결합의 향상에 의한 것임을 정성적으로 뒷받침해주었다.

In a natural fiber-reinforced composite material, many studies have been devoted to improving the interfacial adhesion between natural fiber and polymer matrix and the composite properties through various fiber surface modifications. In the present study, waste wool-reinforced polypropylene matrix composites were fabricated by compression molding and their mechanical and impact properties were characterized. As a result, the tensile and flexural properties and the impact strength of waste wool/polypropylene composites strongly depended on the treatment medium, alkali treatment with sodium hydroxide (NaOH) and silane treatment with 3-glycidylpropylsilane(GPS). The composite with waste wool by silane treatment exhibited higher mechanical properties and impact resistance than that by alkali treatment. The fracture surfaces of the composites support qualitatively the increased properties, showing the improved interfacial bonding between the waste wool and the polypropylene matrix.

Wool fiber was treated with PPE (polyglycerol polyglycidyl ether) multifunctlonal epoxide compound, in order to introduce crosslinks onto the fiber. The optimum conditions, such as NaSCN concentration, time and temperature, were determined in the reaction of wool fiber with PPE epoxide. The amount of epoxide added onto wool fiber increased linearly with the epoxide concentration in the reaction media. The solubility, degree of swelling and tensile properties were significantly affected as the add-on(%) of PPE epoxide varied. These properties indirectly confirmed that the crosslinks were introduced inside the fiber. The direct evidence for the crosslinkins formation was also obtained from the decrease in the cystine content. SEM and X-ray diffraction analysis suggest that the deposition of grafted epoxide copolymers occurs on the surface of wool fiber, particularly in the case of high epoxide add-on(%).

The various techniques of FTIR method, such as KBr-pellet, ATR(attenuated total reflectance) and PAS (photoacoustic spectroscopy), were investigated in order to analyze the amount of epoxide added onto wool fibers. The multifunctional epoxide of PPE(polyglycerol pclyglycidyl ether) was used with different concentrations for the preparation of samples with various add-on. As a result of ailalysis of FTIR spectrum, typical ether peak of PPE epoxide appeared at around $1111 cm^{-1}$ for the KBr-pellet and PAS method while this peak shifted to $1070 cm^{-1}$ in the case of ATR method. The absorbance ratios of amide I,II,III band and ether band were plotted against epoxide add-on individually for determining the linear relation. The best linear fitting was observed with the absorbance ratio of amide III and ether band in both KBr-pellet and ATR method. Therefore, the amount of epoxide could be determined quantitatively by using FTIR spectrum. The slopes of linear fitting were calculated for both methods and compared these values with each other. The difference in slope suggests that the reaction occurs predominantly at the surface rather than inside of the fiber. This result can also be confirmed by FTIR-PAS method, in which IR spectrum was obtained under the control of penetration depth.oss-linked polyurethanes exhibited higher stress than linear polyurethane at the same strain level. The chemical cross-linkages between diacetylene groups appeared to make more stable hard domain to the external deformation.

The dye permeability of the chlorinated wool has been discussed in connect with dye constitution and water absorbency. The chlorinated wool tends to increase the water absorbency and the degree of swelling, which affect to the dye permeability. The mixture of equal parts of chlorinated wool and normal wool were dyed with simple acid dyes which differ in the number of sulphonic acid groups. It is confirmed that the ratio of dye take up by normal wool and chlorinated wool increases with increasing sulphonated groups of dye and the rate of dyeing decreases with increasing basicity of simple acid dye as elucidated by Townend and Simpson for dry-chlorinated wool.

The adsorption of monobasic acid dyes, C.I. Acid Orange 7 and C.I. Acid Blue 78, on normal wool and chlorinated wool has been investigated, Single and binary combination of free dye acids were used. The dye affinities for wools are calculated from modified Gilbert-Rideal's equation. The chorinated wool shows an increase in amount of dye adsorbed at equilibrium. The affinities of dye anions of Orange 7 and blue 78 calculated from single dyeings are 4.1 kcal/mole and 6.7 kcal/mole for chlorinated wool. But binary combination of free dye acids tends to raise the apparent affinity of less strongly adsorbed Orange 7 and to lower that of the more strongly adsorbed Blue 78 for both normal and chlorinated wool.

The objective was to investigate the efficacy of Metasequoia(Metasequoia glyptostroboides) cone colorants as a new functional dye for wool fiber. Effects of dyeing conditions and mordanting on dye uptake, color change, and colorfastness were investigated for wool fiber. Compared with cotton and silk fibers, wool fiber showed better affinity for the Metasequoia cone colorants. Fe and Cu mordants improved dye uptake, and mordanting did not change the color of dyed fabric with YR Munsell color. Colorfastness to rubbing and washing was as good as grade 4, whereas lightfastness of the dyed fabrics was above grade 3. Antimicrobial activity of the colorants was very high 99.3% of reduction rate toward S. aureus. It was confirmed that Metasequoia cone colorants can be utilized as a new functional natural dye for wool fiber. In addition, considering its high antimicrobial functionality it could be applied to cosmetics and food.

In dyebath of acid and cationic dye solution, the effects of pH, dye concentration and dyeing temperature on dyeing properties were investigated by the measurement of the interfacial electrokinetic potential of wool and acrylic fiber. The interfacial electrokinetic potentials were measured by streaming potential method which was generally used in the electrochemical study of interface of fiber and dye solution. The results were transformed into potential by Helmholtz-Smoluchowski formular, into surface charge density by Suzawa formular and into surface dye adsorption of fibers. The f potential of wool in dyebath of acid dye was decreased by the formation of ionic bonding between positively charged wool and acid dye. The f potential of acrylic fiber in dyebath of cationic dye was increased by the formation of ionic bonding between negatively charged acrylic fiber and cationic dye.

Dyeing properties and fiber protective effects of two bifunctional reactive dyes, Rifafix Red BBN(C.1. No. ursavailable, dye I) and Rifafix Red 3BN(C.I. Reactive Red 241, dye II), on wool were investigated at various pH values. Dye I which has two solfonic groups showed the higher degrees of absorption and fixation than dye II which has four sulfonic groups. And dye II was more sensitive to pH values than dye 1. At lower pH values, the blocking of basic sites of wool chain by sulfonic groups had iuluence on the deuces of absorption and fixation only at higher dye concentration. But at higher pH values, the effects appeared at lower dye concentration. Alkali solubility of wool was reduced by dyeing with bifunctional reactive dyes to a greater extent than monofunctional reactive dye of similar structure. And the wool dyed with bifunctional dyes was increased in its thermal stability.

Wool/Polyester 혼방 소모사의 방적공정중 섬유절단에 관한 조사와 25tex혼방사 방출시 polyester의 혼방율이 소모사의 물리적특성에 미치는 영향을 알아보았다. 방적공정중 섬유의 절단은 주로 carding 공정에서 일어났고, 더 나가서는 gilling 공정에서도 손상을 받았음을 알았다. polyester의 함량이 증가할수록 균제도, 꼬임수 변동, 인장강도와 절단선도 및 그들의 C.V.%등은 좋아졌고, 번수변동에는 별다른 영향을 주지 않았다.

Some physical properties of wool/polyester blended worsted yarns were investigated. Fiber breakage was mainly occurred from the carding process, and later on, further in the consecutive gilling performance. In the 25 tex wool/polyester blended yarn, the content of polyester fiber contributed to the evenness, C.V.% of tpcm, breaking load, elongation at break and their C.V.%. But the C.V.% of yarn count was not affected significantly by the content of those two fibers.