Earticle

초록

한국어

Abstract Purpose: This study evaluated the anti-wrinkle potential of Helichrysum italicum essential oil (HIEO) as a cosmetic ingredient by assessing cytotoxicity, ultraviolet A radiation (UV-A)–induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression inhibition, type I procollagen production stimulation in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), and periorbital wrinkle improvement in humans. Methods: Cytotoxicity in HDFs was identified using the MTT assay. The stimulatory effect of HIEO on type I procollagen and its inhibitory effect on UV-A–induced MMP-1 expression were quantified using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. Human use test was conducted in 21 healthy adults aged 40–60 years (mean age, 56 years). Periorbital wrinkle changes were analyzed with ANTERA three-dimensional at baseline, 2 weeks, and 4 weeks. Results: In the cytotoxicity assay, HIEO maintained ≥90% cell viability across 0.003125%–0.05% (v/v), indicating a non-cytotoxic range. Type I procollagen analysis revealed that HIEO significantly increased Type I procollagen production by 19.6% and 27.9% at 0.035% (v/v) and 0.05% (v/v), respectively (both p<0.01). Furthermore, HIEO significantly suppressed UV-A–induced MMP-1 expression by 9.5% at 0.035% (v/v) (p<0.05) and 15.1% at 0.05% (v/v) (p<0.01). Clinical periocular wrinkle assessment revealed decreased Wrinkles-small index (arbitrary units) at the HIEO-treated site by 5.92% at 2 weeks and 11.63% at 4 weeks, whereas the control site (jojoba oil) decreased by 0.55% and 2.38%, respectively. Over 4 weeks, the experimental site exhibited a significantly reduced wrinkle index from baseline beginning at 2 weeks (p<0.001). Conclusion: Within non-cytotoxic concentrations, HIEO demonstrated dual activity by inhibiting MMP-1 expression and enhancing type I procollagen production in HDFs. Moreover, it improved periorbital wrinkles in a 4-week human use test. These findings indicate that HIEO holds potential as an anti-wrinkle functional cosmetic ingredient.

목차

Abstract
Introduction
Methods
1. 시험 재료
2. 시험 방법
3. 눈가주름 개선 임상 시험 평가
Results and Discussion
1. 세포 독성 시험
2. Type I Procollagen 발현량 측정 시험
3. MMP-1 저해 활성
4. 눈가주름 개선 임상효능 평가
Conclusion
References
국문초록
中文摘要

키워드

저자

• Yeo-Jin Choi [ 최여진 | Department of Cosmetics Engineering, Konkuk University, Seoul, Korea ]
• Jung-Min Lee [ 이정민 | Department of Bio Cosmetics Engineering, Sungkyul University, Anyang-si, Gyeonggi-do, Korea ]
• Seunghee Bae [ 배승희 | Department of Bio Cosmetics Engineering, Sungkyul University, Anyang-si, Gyeonggi-do, Korea ] Corresponding Author

참고문헌

발행기관

간행물

표지보기 관심저널 등록

• 간행물명

  아시안뷰티화장품학술지 [Asian Journal of Beauty and Cosmetology]

• 간기

  계간

• pISSN

  2466-2046

• eISSN

  2466-2054

• 수록기간

  2016~2026

• 등재여부

  KCI 등재

• 십진분류

  KDC 593 DDC 646